Hole in the Head

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

this betta has one imbetween his eyes

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is a species of ciliate protozoan which parasitizes freshwater fish. It is probably the most common aquarium fish disease and there are few Aquarists that have not met it on one or more occasions[1]. “Ich” (the colloquially abbreviated form of the name) is the largest known parasitic protozoan found on fishes. Adult organisms are oval or round and measure 0.5 to 1.0 mm in size. The adult is uniformly ciliated and contains a horseshoe-shaped nucleus which can be seen in older individuals. The disease it causes is usually called ich or white spot, and becomes especially serious in enclosed areas, where it spreads quickly from one fish to another. Ich is the disease responsible for the most fatalities in freshwater aquarium fish and can cause notable damage to aquaculture. Marine ich is caused by a different ciliate, Cryptocaryon.
After approximately one week of parasitism, mature trophozoites leave their host, settle to a substrate and secrete a cyst. The encysted cell, called a tomont, undergoes rapid division over approximately twenty-four hours to produce 600-1000 daughter cells called tomites. Once these reach maturity, they exit the cyst and develop into a theront stage, which is highly mobile. Theronts then infect new fish, digging their way into exposed parts, under the scales, or more commonly into its gill plate. The entire life-cycle takes about seven to ten days to complete.

Prevention
It is important to note that the Ich parasite is in almost every tank, prevention is key to avoiding an outbreak. Preventative measures against ichthyophthirius include buying only healthy fish from reputable dealers, proper acclimatization techniques (no one elses water goes in your tank), separating already sick fish from healthy fish through quarantine, maintaining high water quality, and not overstocking. Adding aquarium salt to aquarium water (according to the directions which should be available on an aquarium salt package) should also prevent ich. However, care should be taken, as not all freshwater fish can handle salt in their water. Some fish called “skin fish” like most loaches, and even some catfish are very susceptible to burning from the salt.

Predisposing factors
Ich outbreaks usually occur when new fish are introduced or during times of stress. Elevated ammonia or nitrate levels or sudden changes in temperature can also bring about a latent infection.[dubious – discuss] A sudden chilling of the fish, which can easily occur when they are being transported, is often sufficient to take the parasite from its latent state to the reproductive phase.[dubious – discuss]

Diagnosis
Typical behaviours of ich infected fish include:
Anorexia (loss of appetite, refusing all food, with consequential wasting)
Hiding abnormally
Flashing
Rubbing and scratching against objects
Tropical fish are vulnerable to a large variety of diseases. As such, ich treatment should not be applied unless one or more of the fish is exhibiting the characteristic white spots.

Skin
Ich infections are usually visible in the form of characteristic white spots on the side of the fish. The white spots are pockets of fish epithelia containing Ichthyophthirius cells called trophozoites or trophonts, which feed on the tissues of the host and may grow to 1 mm in diameter. A smear should show ciliates if white spot is present.

Fins
Fins are folded and show white spots about 1 mm in diameter.

Eyes
Eyes may appear cloudy or milky.

Gills
Gill infection will cause breathing at the surface and fast respiration. Gill examination may show numbers of such white spots. Wet mount of a Gill Biopsy may show I. mutifiliis trophozoites.

Treatment
Any treatment method must take into account the species of fish (some will not tolerate certain medications), how high the infection rate is, and the size and type of environment.
If it is detected before it becomes too serious, a number of different treatments can be applied. Only the free-swimming stage of the parasite is susceptible to treatment; neither the trophonts under the epithelium nor the tomont cysts can be killed.

Heat treatment
Heat treatment can be highly effective, and it can be combined with other treatments.
The three phases of the ichthyophthirius life-cycle (Adult, Cyst, Free swimming) take about 4 weeks at 21 °C (70 °F) to complete but only 5 days at 80 °F. For this reason it is recommended that the aquarium water be raised to 28-30 °C (82-86 °F) for the duration of the treatment. Avoid fast temperature changes; water temperature should be raised or reduced gradually 0.5-1 °C (1-2 °F) per day. There are species of fish that will not tolerate the high end of temperatures needed to be effective. If the fish can stand it, raise the temperature even higher, up to 30 °C (86 °F). Raising the temperature also, presumably, reduces and kills the free swimming parasite. It is important to remember that raising the temperature higher, but not high enough so that the parasite is killed, should be used in conjunction with some sort of medication. The heat speeds up the life cycle of the ichthyophthirius, which is useful if the fish is being medicated, because otherwise the parasites simply reproduce at a faster rate, and kill the aforementioned fish quicker.

Salt
In small tanks, the most recommended method of treatment for ich consists of adding aquarium salt until a specific gravity of 1.002 g/cm³ is achieved, as the parasites are less tolerant of salt than fish. This is not practical in ponds because even a light salt solution of 0.01% (100 mg/L, 272 lb/acre-foot), would require large quantities of salt. Fish can be dipped in a 3% (30,000 mg/L) solution for thirty seconds to several minutes, or they can be treated in a prolonged bath at a lower concentration (0.05% = 500 mg/L). Salt at low concentrations (0.01 to 0.05% solution) is an excellent[citation needed] means of controlling “Ich” in recirculating systems without harming the biofilter. Care should be taken to avoid damaging aquatic plants and salt intolerant fish. In particular, do not use salt with sensitive soft water Tetras such as Neons, Cardinals and Glow-Lights or scaleless Catfish (which can be easily burned if salt is not pre-dissolved)[citation needed].
Salt treatment can be combined with heat treatment.

Chemical treatments
Chemical treatments include formalin, malachite green, chelated copper, copper sulfate, potassium permanganate and Quinine Sulfate. Because they can be harmed by these treatments, certain plants and invertebrates, such as snails, should be removed before application. There are also a large number of proprietary treatments available for the treatment of white spot, and the related Oodinium (velvet disease). Although based on the chemicals mentioned above, they are generally considered to be better for the safety of both the aquarist and fish than the pure chemical form of the treatment. All treatments target the free-living theronts and tomonts, which only survive about two to three days in the absence of a host fish, so treatment should be continued until a few days after the last white spot has disappeared from the fish. This will usually take about a week; 10 days is typical at 27 °C (80 °F) and 6 days at 29 °C (84 °F).

Fish transfer
Ich can be treated with a transfer method. Fish are moved daily into a different tank with clean, conditioned, warmed water. Parasites that fall off of the fish are left behind in the tank. After moving the fish daily for 7-10 days, the fish (presumably cured) can be put back into the main tank. The disadvantage of this method is that it stresses both fish and fishkeeper.

Gravel Vacuuming
Vacuuming the surface of the gravel with a siphon device can remove the parasite at cyst stage. Try not to stir up the water too much as it just blows the cysts all over.

Cautions
All medications, to some degree, are toxic not only to the parasite but also to the fish. Grossly weakened fish will not tolerate medication that more robust and less infected ones may. Bottom feeders such as catfishes, scaleless fish, and many tetras are adversely impacted by the use of malachite green.
Malachite green is hazardous to handle: it is known to cause cancer, mutations, and is harmful to fetuses. Gloves and a protective mask should always be worn when handling the concentrated powder. Pregnant women should never handle this chemical. There are claims that malachite green might increase in toxicity to fish as the temperature increases. You may want to reconsider your decision to use malachite green if you intend to raise the temperature at the same time, or if you already maintain your temperature at a higher level than normal. Malachite green also tends to stain the plastic and silicone in the aquarium.

Prognosis
If the disease is diagnosed early and effectual treatment is applied, the outlook is excellent. However if the infestation is at an advanced stage, mortalities should be expected. Note that when a fish has been cured from Ich, it will usually form an immunity to the infection.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius_multifiliis

Enteric redmouth disease

Enteric redmouth disease, or simply redmouth disease is a bacterial infection of freshwater and marine fish caused by the pathogen Yersinia ruckeri. It is primarily found in rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) however, and is characterized by subcutaneous hemorrhaging of the mouth, fins, and eyes. Hemorrhaging also occurs on internal organs, and in the later stages of the disease the intestines become filled with a yellow fluid. Redmouth disease was first discovered in Idaho rainbow trout in the 1950’s.[1]
Some fish species serve as vectors for the disease and have subsequently spread the pathogen to other parts of the world.[1] An example is the fathead minnow (Pimephales promelas) which is responsible for the spread of redmouth disease to trout in Europe.[2] Other vectors include the goldfish (Carassius auratus), Atlantic and Pacific salmon (Salmo salar), the emerald shiner (Notropis atherinoides), and farmed whitefish (Coregonus spp.). Infections have also occurred in farmed turbot (Scophthalmus maximus), seabass (Dicentrarchus labrax), and seabream (Sparus auratus).[1]
There are several antibiotics available for the treatment of redmouth disease in fish. The disease does not affect humans.[1]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enteric_redmouth_disease

Fish Dropsy

Dropsy is a common disease among fresh-water aquarium fish. The name is from an old name for Edema in humans.

Symptoms
This disease is characterised by a swollen or hollow abdomen (Ascites). A concentration of fluid in the body tissues and cavities causes the fish’s abdomen to become swollen and appear bloated. Swollen areas may exhibit a ‘pine-cone’ appearance caused by the fishes scales sticking out. You can best see this by viewing your fish from the top. Fish may also stop feeding, appear off-colour, become listless and/or lethargic, have sunken eyes, and hang at the top or stay at the bottom of the aquarium.
The condition affects the fish’s internal organs, ceasing proper function.
Gouramies, Cyprinids (barbs, danios, etc), guppies, betta and goldfish are prone to this disease.

Causes
Dropsy is fairly easy to diagnose non-specifically, however, it is much harder to diagnose the cause. The main cause is bacterial infection. The causative agent may be introduced through food or dirty water. Edema second to kidney failure or ascites due to liver or heart failure are other possible causes.

Treatment
Dropsy is not very contagious; however, if a fish is diagnosed with dropsy, it is important to remove it from the aquarium as soon as possible. If there are multiple fish, treat the afflicted fish in a specially established “sick tank” (Quarantine). Dropsy can spread from the ill fish, possibly causing stress among the other fish in the tank community. This extra stress may make the others vulnerable to dropsy or other forms of disease.
Treatment may consist of antibiotics targeting the causative agent. They work best in the very early stages of dropsy. A more hands-on approach is to raise the aquarium’s temperature a few degrees – slightly higher than usual. Adding Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) to the water at (a rate of 20 mg/L)helps to encourage the fish to expel unnecessary damaging fluids.

Prognosis
Prognosis of fish dropsy is not good. By the time fish has swollen up enough that the scales begin to raise, the internal damage may be too extensive to repair. Most cases of dropsy are fatal. However, if the fish is placed in a quarantine tank and treated with a broad spectrum antibiotic or a bacterial remedy from any aquatic sales shop, then the fish can make a full recovery in less than a week.

Prevention
Maintaining water quality is always extremely important. It should always be checked first, because it is often the cause of disease in aquarium fish. Frequent water changes can work to prevent the spread of disease by “watering down” the concentration of disease agents, and by reducing stress on the tank occupants.
All tanks need a 10-25% water change on a weekly basis. The best method of changing water is siphoning the water from the bottom, removing debris and fecal matter from the gravel.
Always feed fish from reliable sources and use high quality food. Varying diet is also important.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_Dropsy

Bloater

The bloater (Coregonus hoyi) is a freshwater fish native to the Great Lakes. It is silver in color with a pink and purple iridescence and reaches an average length of 9 inches (23cm).
In British cuisine, the bloater is, like the kipper, a type of smoked herring, but is differentiated from the kipper by the fact that fish is smoked whole, with its innards intact. According to George Orwell in The Road to Wigan Pier, the Emperor Charles V erected a statue to the inventor of bloaters.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bloater

List of aquarium diseases

Amylodinium (marine velvet)
Anchor worms
Columnaris
Cryptocaryon (marine ick)
Dropsy
Fin rot
Skin or Gill Flukes
Ichthyophthirius (white spot or ick)
Velvet Disease, including Oodinium
Tuberculosis
Hexamita (hole in the head)
Lymphocystis
Flexibacter columnaris

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_aquarium_diseases